This is a typical Bustle and is often called an
Overbustle. Buttons or hooks are positioned at
the waist and loops are sewn at carefully
plotted points on the train so that when they
are looped on the buttons the train is all one
length. It's not always possible to have every
bit of the train to be perfectly straight, but with
skill it can come very close. For this style of
bustle, both sides of the fastener are on the
outside of the dress. This style is least
noticeable when there are details on the dress
that can hide hooks and loops

This gown presents a special problem. The skirt is
tufted with jeweled appliques at each gathering spot
to accentuate the tuft. The bride didn't like the idea of
either Ballroom or French Bustles for both hid several
of the jeweled appliques. We decided to make each
Tuft a bustle point and anchor them just below the
tuft above them.
Here you can see the hook behind an
applique, looped onto it's anchor point.  
The hook is facing the applique instead of
the usually way of facing out so that when
looped with the eye, it sits backwards so it
won't easily get dislodged.
Here is what the gown looks like with all 16
points hooked up

A French Bustle is often called an Underbustle because it hooks up under the skirt. It's a great option for
situations like this gown where all of the train decoration is right below the waist area. A French Bustle often
looks more fluffy than the Ballroom Bustle because all the fabric is on the outside and there is often netting
in the folds to make them more prominent. The French Bustle is a favorite because it is the most secure, and
nothing shows on the outside when the bustle it up.
French Bustle#1
This gown is a good candidate for a French
Bustle because it is very full.. It ended up
being 4 points.
French bustle#2
This is the same bustle as the one directly above
only the train is longer and not as wide. The design
of the train is a big determinant of how the bustle
will drape.
Bustles
Overbustle
Tufted Bustle
Harper Design Bridal Alterations
Your choice for experienced bridal alterations
The French Bustle